Jordan November 2025

 

I’ve always been an inquisitive explorer with a passion for travel, especially for places which are unique and ‘outside of the norm’ for most people.  I’ve also learned over the years that if I were to hang around waiting for other people to be ‘ready’ I’d never get anywhere, therefore I travel solo a lot of the time, and it’s always been well worth it as you meet so many people you wouldn’t otherwise meet. So, when the opportunity to go on a ‘Pioneer’ trip to Jordan came up with Rory’s Travel Club I jumped at it – no hesitation – sold! 

 

I noticed the itinerary was packed full of historic and biblical sites which had me both intrigued and excited.  Some of them had greatly fascinated me since my childhood when I promised myself all those years ago that ‘someday’ I would go there myself.  The Dead Sea and Petra were the two main magnetic attractions for me, but everyone had their own favourite.  The other great selling point for me was all the ‘organisation’ was already done so all I had to do was book it, pay for it and turn up – bliss! I travelled to Jordan with the pioneer group in November 2025.

Jordan is bordered by several countries, including Turkey, Syriah, Egypt, Iraq and Saudi Arabia and of course, Israel. Although the Middle Eastern influence is predominant there are also hints of Africa and Europe as you travel throughout this fascinating country. The whole trip encompassed a myriad of ancient, biblical and archaeological sites of the Holyland and more. Ironically, despite its ancient origins and history 60 per cent of Jordans population is aged under 20, so a new generation is emerging, and it will be interesting to see how it evolves. It is a very spiritual destination and regardless of your background or beliefs you cannot help but be impacted in some way during your visit here. 

The whole trip was very well organised from beginning to end and on arrival in Amman airport the 25 of us in our group were picked up by our guide and taken to our bus which would be our second home for the next 10 days!  Our excellent English-speaking guide was Waleed, and our driver was Abdullah and we could not have asked for better. We arrived at the Grand Palace hotel, Amman where we were staying for our first two nights. After a mere 3 or 4 hours sleep we were up with the larks to start the day early to reach our first destination – JERASH, an ancient city and world heritage site in North Jordan.

Our guide Waleed was a mine of information, facts and knowledge and very proud of his country.  He was very patient with us and welcomed all our questions. Jordan is 90sq kilometres in size and 86 per cent of the country is desert. The desert was obvious wherever we travelled up and down the country.  Its natural irrigation system is the same as since Roman times and is designed to ensure proper irrigation and no water logging, using natural limestone in the form of slanted and uneven stones and large cobbles and slabs. This rocky, uneven structure is obvious in the ancient city of Jerash, and other ancient sites throughout Jordan.  

The capital, Amman is built on 7 hills (quite like Rome). Jordans main income is from nationals going abroad to work and sending money home to family. The second main source of income is tourism (mainly Petra) and they are hoping this will grow in time. 

Jordan has many religious beliefs and backgrounds, the most prominent being Christian, Muslim, Islam and Jewish yet despite different beliefs and origins each creed is very proud of the fact that Jordan is the place where Jesus was baptised in the year 32AD. When booking this trip, I had no idea Jordan encompassed so much of the Holyland, as I had automatically assumed most associations with The Holyland would be with Jerusalem and Bethlehem which are in Israel, but I and my fellow travelling companions were about to be pleasantly surprised to discover that we were indeed in the heart of the Holyland. There were also four world heritage sites on our exciting itinerary:  

• Jerash

• Wadi Rum

• ‘Bethany Beyond the Jordan’ (Al-Maghtas), where Jesus was bapitsed by John the Baptist.

• Petra

Travelling in our comfortable air-conditioned bus it was wonderful to observe the authentic Jordan and its people.  We observed blue domed mosques and various other churches and houses of worship.  Donkeys and camels and people laying their prayer mats at the side of the road to kneel and pray during the calls of prayer was the norm. Random vendors with their rustic stalls dotted the roadside selling mainly fresh fruit to the locals.

Day 2- JERASH

Our first stop was the ancient city and archaeological site of Jerash, which boasts an unbroken chain of human occupation for over 6,500 years.  Reminiscent of the Roman Empire and all things Holyland, Jerash is one of the oldest cities and one of the best-preserved Roman cities in the world.  Some parts of the original mosaic floors remain today. Entering by the majestic Hadrians Arch at the south gate we observed ancient burial sites, most of them underground with precarious steps leading down to the crypts. We had an excellent site history lesson from our guide Waleed and then we walked around by ourselves, most of us venturing into the Great Oval Plaza, with its colonnade of ancient columns standing tall, like gigantic soldiers, impressively guarding this part of the road to Damascus, and it reminded me of Ephesus in Turkey – without the crowds! Moving along into the Hippodrome, this huge, impressive Amphitheatre where the acoustics are so sharp, you can clearly imagine going back to the times of the Roman Empire and being able to see and hear all of the entertainment. Here, we were entertained by bagpipes players who appeared out of nowhere when they heard us arrive.

The remains of the Great Temple of Zeus stood proudly beside the Amphitheatre, and we climbed up for photos beside these majestic columns which rose high into the sky with the sun shining through them the same way it did thousands of years ago.  It was an acute experience of being transported back in time.

Our first experience of Jordanian local wares and ‘hard sell’ was with the vendors in Jerash, at the entry and exit points. They’d stop at nothing to sell their wares, mainly shawls and crystals.   I had one man promise me his mother was up all night hand making the shawls (which were identical to all the other stallholders’ shawls and wrapped in commercial plastic covering!) It was difficult to get away from them at times as they were so persistent in their sales talk and promises of ‘personally looking after you’ that I was actually relieved to leave this beautiful place by the time we got back to our bus.

We then travelled further north to Ajloun Castle which has a Byzantine church.  Originally built in the 12th century, it is the highest point in Jordan at 1,123 metres above sea level. Our guide informed us that from 1516-1916 Jordan was under the Ottoman Empire, so no churches were allowed to be built. As we climbed further up the hill and some steep steps into the castle the view from the top was mesmerising. Geographically speaking we were surprised to learn that at this point we were only 15 miles from the Sea of Galilee and 50 miles from Jerusalem, and 100 miles from Iraq.

Day 3 – MADABA 

The next day we boarded the bus again for a long drive to Petra (the highlight of the trip for most people), stopping off at places of interest along the way. 

After leaving Amman our first stop was Mount Nebo, the burial site of Moses, and the most revered holy site in Jordan. Mount Nebo is one of the sites visited by Pope John Paul II in the year 2000 during his visit to Jordan.  From the top of Mount Nebo, the view is amazing.  From the main viewpoint to the left is Jericho.  Straight ahead is the Wadi Al Kharrar, baptism site where John the Baptist baptised Jesus (which we would visit another day) and to the right is the Dead Sea (which was also on our agenda). Excavation of Mount Nebo began in the 6th century and is still ongoing today. This site is also only 50km from Bethlehem.  It was fascinating to be so close to these other biblical sites which were the Israeli side of the river Jordan. We entered the Basilica of Moses where most of the original mosaics have been painstakingly preserved.  There are several monuments on this site, the ancient and most in keeping with this site being the Abu Bado, a large rolling stone used as a fortified door of a Byzantine monastery, and the same as the one used at the tomb of Jesus. 

We then drove through the area of MADABA which is best known for its colourful, detailed mosaics.  We stopped at a mosaic workshop where they produced beautiful hand made mosaics in many forms, on pictures, on tables etc and I believe they will arrange shipping which is included in the price of your purchase.  Mosaics are prominent and evident in all the ancient sites and biblical churches, particularly in Mount Nebo and the Church of St George, the most important church in all of Jordan.  The ancient, original mosaic of the oldest map of the Holyland is still on the floor.  Although somewhat ruined after many centuries, most of the original mosaic floor is preserved and protected and is still clearly visible to all who visit this church and is fascinating to see. A strong spiritual presence is eminent in this beautiful church, and according to my fellow travellers I was not alone in experiencing this. 

Leaving St Georges church, we walked through the old streets around the corner to the Haret Jdondna, an old Jordanian restaurant.  We all sat together in very pleasant surroundings, with a large olive tree growing in the middle of the dining area, and we experienced an authentic Jordanian meal, which included various salads and delicious pitta bread, followed by lemon chicken (and chips for those who wanted them!) and ended with blancmange desert. Although I consider myself a hesitant, dubious, fussy eater I was very pleasantly surprised by our delicious meal and so was everyone else. It was a delightful group dining experience. 

Leaving the restaurant with renewed energy we headed back to our bus to continue on our journey, this time along the Desert Highway, stopping at one of many desert castles for a quick photo stop. Happy, fascinated and exhausted after this very full day’s wonderful itinerary we boarded the bus again and watched the awe-inspiring Jordanian sunset over the desert from the comfort of our bus.  We eventually arrived in Petra around 7pm, as the skies were darkening.  Driving downhill towards our hotel and this world heritage site the vision before us was like something out of a fairytale.   The zig zag roads built into the hills were alive with lights and mystery, and we couldn’t wait to explore it.

Day 4 – PETRA – One of the seven wonders of the world

Alarm went off at 5.45.  During and after breakfast met up with everyone in the group in the lobby for another 7am start to another exciting day!  Today was the highlight of most people’s holiday.  For once our driver Abdullah had a well-deserved break as we left the bus redundant for the day and walked a couple of hundred yards from our hotel to the entrance of The Lost City – Petra. 

I can only say one has to experience it oneself.  It really is just like all the pictures captured over time on television or cinematic cameras and in professional photographs.  It’s mesmerising and quite astonishing.  The experience starts with a walk down the old worn pathway to approach the Canyon, passing by horses for hire for anyone who is unable to walk easily on uneven ground or unable to walk any distance as they can carry people as far as the entrance to the Canyon, when it gets very narrow.  The horses are also for anyone who wants the experience of riding horseback through this World Heritage site.  We all opted to walk and enjoy as much authenticity as possible.  

We passed by many caves where Bedouin people lived until recently.  The journey then took us past the first lot of vendors (there are a LOT of vendors in Petra!) They were selling frankincense and myrrh in the forms of oils and perfumes, camel ornaments in every size and colour, sheesha pipes are abundant as well as crystals, shawls and traditional Arabic kohl eyeliners which some of us ‘modelled’ for and then purchased.  We passed by some caves which we could enter, and they were surprisingly large in size and are excellent shelter from the outside elements.  The floor was covered in traditional carpets made of camel hair and bamboo and beds were lined against the walls and candles burned throughout creating a cozy and safe environment, and again we were transported back in time to a simple world where the main concern was getting enough food. 

As we walked further along, we entered into the main Canyon where the path narrowed, and the surrounding rocks became high walls. Waleed explained that the distinctive colour red in the rock formations is due to the rich iron content, and he pointed out various monuments and points of interest including explaining the irrigation system which is chiselled into the rocks causing the water to flow easily. The ‘road’ was built of limestone, originally buy the Romans (just like Jerash and Ephesus) and eventually it changes to a different surface as they could not carry the limestone any further down the Canyon.  I witnessed just how hard the donkeys work, both historically and to this day.  We suddenly came across a blinding strip of sunlight through a gap in the Canyon ‘walls’, with an awesome vision before us. We had arrived at the Treasury Building.  After the initial excitement we just stared at it in wonder. It truly was a magnificent sight. 

 

We took time out here to consume our surroundings and the atmosphere.  Not yet crowded as it was still early morning there were plenty of people there from many nationalities doing the same thing.  Taking photos of their surroundings and wishing they could somehow capture the reality. It’s impossible to capture the enchantment and true beauty of this place. The Treasury Building dominates this opening in the Canyon and in this area, you can avail of some respite in the form of hot or cold drinks and a sit down if you need it.  Meanwhile the vendors are trying their best to sell their goods at wildly inflated prices to unsuspecting consumers.  I’ll admit they have beautiful crystals here and many of them for sale at daylight robbery prices!  One man tried to convince me that a crystal I was admiring was hand-made by him!  I (reluctantly) walked away after telling him I was only interested in genuine crystals which are naturally formed in the earth!  He followed me and I eventually got the price down to a reasonable amount.  

Moving on past the Treasury Building the pathway widens out and we see lots of donkeys, goats and more horses until we eventually reached the end of the Canyon and sat for a well-earned break before moving on again.  At this point you have a choice to move on further which is a steep, rocky climb of 900 precarious and dangerous steps to the top of the mountain or to turn back.  Some of us decided to give it a go so we proceeded and climbed on!  It was quite a laborious climb to the top (for some, me included, but not for all!) and during the climb the views were amazing and we spent more time dodging the donkeys as they passed us by with passengers on their backs. There were rocky edges, which were slippery in parts and the poor hard-working donkeys had to climb up carrying these people.  We had to move out of the way many times.  I did it in sympathy for the donkeys – not for their lazy passengers.  By the time we reached the Monastery, we were dusty and tired but absolutely delighted with ourselves.  Then we spotted a sign for a further climb – and sure why not? We had come this far!  So off we trekked huffing and puffing and clinging on to some dodgy rock precipices (I may be exaggerating slightly here…) and moments later reaching a Bedouin tent at the very, very top where we were warmly greeted by the owner who served us tea.  After the exhilaration of reaching the top the opportunity to sit down was much appreciated, and the tea was very refreshing.  But it was the views from here which caught our breath and stunned us. Below us was the Monastery, looking almost as majestic as the Treasury Building from this height.  Whilst soaking up the view and the peace and tranquillity of this place we were just getting too comfortable when we remembered we had to climb all the way down again and walk back the way we came, so reluctantly we left thanking our host as we started the descent back to the Canyon. 

The descent was quite challenging in itself.  Still dodging donkeys and watching our footing we were consistently approached by vendors and hawkers.  Here, they were most persistent in their sales pitch.  One woman wouldn’t let me pass her by whilst I was standing on a precarious rock shelf with no escape.  She accused me of not supporting women (even though she could plainly see I was carrying bags of wares purchased from other vendors) and that I should be ashamed of myself!  I eventually managed to pass her by (without falling of the cliff shelf) and I was not the better for this aggressive encounter! 

Other vendors were just as bad with one of their favourite lines being ‘if you don’t buy from me my family will starve’.  They really know how to push the emotional guilt buttons here!  By the time I got back as far as the Treasury Building I was exhausted - from the behaviours of the traders and the hawkers – not from the walk! Be pre-warned!

On the retreat back to the Canyon there are further opportunities to walk up the hills and into the caves, and to view the Treasury Building from another viewpoint across the way. Some opted to do this, and the photos proved it was well worth it!  However, with hunger getting the better of me I desisted and decided to head back to the hotel, but not before I sat down for a little while longer to take in the sheer beauty of my surroundings again.  Gazing at the Treasury Building I still could not believe I was actually here in Petra.  

Walking back towards the (same entry and exit point) I met up with some of the group – all dusty and tired but absolutely exhilarated from our experience. At this point it’s mainly uphill so you will definitely get your exercise and your daily ‘steps in here!  A couple of us decided to look for somewhere to eat and drink and after exiting Petra the first alleyway we passed I saw an enticing sign for food and drink so in we went. Again, it was great to sit down so we ordered beers and salads and pitta bread and all I can say is it tasted like Heaven. After some persistence from one fellow traveller, we decided to try the Sheesha pipe! Why not?  It was certainly a day of first-time experiences and what a day it had been. 

That night the rains came.  So did the thunder and lightning. We had been so lucky with the weather and timing the previous day in Petra.  The weather in Jordan had been very dry up until now and the native olive trees had been adversely impacted. Because there had been no rain this season the olive trees had not been producing much, if any fruit, so the price of olive oil increased by a massive 50 per cent this year which was unprecedented in Jordan.

Day 5 – WADI RUM

Leaving Petra behind we also left the good weather as there was now a distinct coolness and the skies were darker and heavier today.  There was a lot of fog as we travelled along the Kingsway highway, but not before a final stop at the highest point to view Petra from above. Looking at Petra below we couldn’t believe how much and how far we had walked (and climbed) the previous day!  The distance looked so much bigger and longer than we had realised. 

Back on the Kingsway we were headed Southeast towards Wadi Rum and the Saudi Arabian border – land of the Edomites and Lawrence of Arabia country.  The Kingsway passes through a rough, rocky, mountainous terrain only to be broken by more desert.  The desert landscape consists of rocks, sand and some sparse vegetation throughout. 

We arrived at our campsite accommodation at lunchtime with ample time to check out the site before decamping on a jeep tour of the desert.  Our basic accommodation consisted of a group of slightly elevated huts, each one with comfortable beds and a basic shower. It also had a little front porch with a wicker chair and small table.  Dotted around the small camp were some 4 poster swing beds with a well and some little urns which lend to perfect the desert atmosphere.  I was looking forward to sitting on my front porch with a book when we got back from our jeep tour. 

As we set off in the jeeps it surprised me how immense the desert is.  I had been to the desert in Dubai before, but this was totally different. The Wadi Rum desert is so vast it’s no wonder it’s classed as a world heritage site. Camels roam freely throughout this stunning landscape of red rock, including the famous ‘seven pillars of wisdom’ – an impressive rock formation towering above the others. We availed of some photo stops of the ancient inscriptions and drawings in some of the rocks and some people took a short camel ride.

However, by the time we got back it was too cold to sit outside and there wasn’t much else to do except go to the dining room in the large communal Bedouin tent – which was not open yet.  Although it had been warm and sunny when we arrived, I was surprised how cold it got in such a short space of time.  The evening and nighttime were very chilly and with nothing else to do and nowhere to go I got into my bed with my book to warm up.  I was also hungry and was glad when it was eventually dinner time.  Food choice was limited and somewhat disappointing and the staff could not wait to get rid of us and took the food away early. Again, there was no alcohol, so it was just as well we were so tired from our adventures in Petra the previous day as well as our desert adventure of today so although there was some basic ‘entertainment’ in the form of some traditional music laid on for us, with no other options available I opted to get some sleep early instead. 

Next morning breakfast was very limited, and the staff removed the food before the allotted time, so some people got no breakfast!  Although grateful to have seen it I was happy to be leaving the Wadi Rum desert and moving on elsewhere.

Days 6 & 7 – AQABA - Jordan's window to the sea

Today we continued south towards Aqaba and the Red Sea and thankfully the weather was getting warmer and far more pleasant. We were to stay here for the next couple of days, and it was a very pleasant release from the desert and the many castles and biblical sites.  Entering the Aqaba region, we crossed border control (with Saudi Arabia). As we got our first glimpse of the glorious Red Sea, we could see and feel a difference from our previous environments.  This was more like your beach holiday resort (although not quite) and is gaining popularity with tourists. We made a welcome stop at the beautiful waterfront which is still developing nicely with lots of boats and other activities, and not many tourists yet.  The mesmerising colour of the Red Sea is a magical Tanzanite and reminds me of the sea in Malta. Across the water you can clearly see Egypt, which is only a couple of miles away and you can get a ferry across, however, beware as you may need another visa to get back into Jordan!  

 

In Aqaba you can buy alcohol, but the Government has placed a 300 percent alcohol tax in this region, mainly due to growing tourism. At this stage I was on day 6 of my holiday and so far, had only consumed 5 alcoholic drinks!  I was looking forward to settling in at our hotel and relaxing with some ‘down time’ after all our walking and early morning risings of the previous week.  Our guide had ‘checked in with the hotel and discovered our rooms were not ready yet so in order to ‘kill’ some time we went locally for something to eat.  In the meantime, one of the ‘crew’ had discovered a liquor store only a street away. We finished our coffee and made our way to said liquor store without further delay only to be met by most of our fellow travelling companions – all clutching bottles of wine and beer and some local brews.  It was probably the best trading day ever for the shop owner. You could hear all the bottles rattling on the bus all the way to the hotel!

Our accommodation was in the beautiful Tala Bay Resort hotel in the South Beach area.  This was much quieter than North Beach which is more commercial and crowded. The hotel covers a large area, including a marina with a couple of pubs and restaurants. This hotel also has several pools, Jacuzzis and whirlpools with direct beach access, as well as a restaurant (with wine and beer available!) on the main site just off the beach. It also has a hairdressing salon which some of the ladies availed of and as much as I wanted to. I was holding off for after my hair experienced the Dead Sea which was next on the agenda!

Hint:  Bring a corkscrew!  I borrowed one from the hotel bar. 

Although I’m not a big fan of swimming I just had to experience a dip in the Red Sea.  No excuses! We struggled a bit to get in and out due to it being so stoney, (although we all helped each other) but it was like balm to the body and soul once we were immersed in it.  We had a lot of laughs while we were in the water and some of us availed of the relaxing sun loungers under the palm trees afterwards.  This was bliss. 

Hint:  Bring your water shoes with you.  I forgot mine and they would have been so handy in the Red Sea and the Dead Sea. 

We reluctantly tore ourselves away from the beach to get ready to go out on the town. We shared taxis and all headed off to Ali Baba’s restaurant which was recommended by our guide Waleed, and it did not disappoint.  Waleed explained the set menu to us and again, we all decided to go with it. There were flatbreads and salads and humous to start. Naturally, in this environment fish was prominent on the menu, especially the local Dorad and Seabream and the fish was grilled in garlic and lemon and local spices. The fish was good but there were only a handful of fries.  However, thanks to some plate sharing there really was something for everyone.  We sat outside on 2 long tables whilst watching the town and its inhabitants go by. We were enjoying these group dining experiences!  Some of us decided to head back to the hotel and some opted to go to the local markets.  As tempting as the market was tiredness overcame me.  During the taxi ride back to the hotel gazing out at all the lights of Egypt across the water it seemed bizarre that were so close to so many other countries.  That’s another wonderful thing about Jordan, the proximity to other countries. Before retiring for the night some of us had a relaxing night cap at the hotels beautiful sunset bar.  

The following day, after a delicious breakfast most of us relaxed in the resort itself, availing of the many pools, and the sea and other facilities. I went for a walk on the beach and after making a few turns discovered the other entrance to the marina which was so quiet.  Restaurants dotted the marina as well as a few shops, mainly aimed at tourists. Because it was so quiet I decided to head back to the hotel and the on-site restaurant beside the pools and the beach. It was wonderfully relaxing after all our previous activities. 

We witnessed more amazing sunsets over the Red Sea which were only enhanced by the sunset filtering through the palm trees. There were no crowds here.  It was so tranquil and peaceful and balm to the soul. 

Day 8 – Arabian Peninsula

Today we started the 325km long drive back up north from Aqaba to Amman.  Leaving the beautiful Red Sea behind we headed to Umm Al Rassa and Kharak Castle, a large medieval stronghold sitting 900 metres above sea level.  The mostly desert views from here were spectacular.  It was also fascinating to walk through the ancient underground chambers and stairwells where you can be transported back in time. 

We then stopped at the Church of St. Stephen, another world heritage site which is still under excavation. We saw more ancient mosaics symbolising several eras and churches. There is an exceptional Byzantine mosaic floor – the best-preserved example of its kind. 

Eventually we were headed west on the Tropical highway towards Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea. This was one of the most anticipated highlights of my trip to Jordan. 

Where to start?  This is a fascinating site and one of the world’s most amazing places. The Dead Sea is the biggest natural spa in the world and a biblical one. It’s the lowest point on the face of the earth at 450 metres below sea level.  On approach you can feel some compression in the ears as it drops in sea level. I learned that it is losing a further 2-3 metres per day.  It is alarming to realise how far the sea level has lowered in such a short time.  Although it was my first visit here it was blatantly obvious the sea level has dropped significantly, very quickly. The first hotels were built here around 20 years ago, and the sea was level with the hotels.  Not anymore.  There are marker signs showing where the water level was at certain times, for instance where the water level was in 2005 and 2019 and the difference is frightening. It’s a long downhill walk to the sea.  It is believed that can completely disappear within the next 50 years if no action is taken. The Jordanian government is working on a plan to remediate this by perhaps taking some water from the Red Sea to replenish the Dead Sea levels but at the time of writing this no solid plan is in place yet.

Ever since learning of the Dead Sea when I was a small girl, I’ve always been fascinated by the fact that you can float on this body of water.  As one who is normally afraid of the sea and getting into water anywhere, I have always wanted to experience this for myself and now all these decades later I was finally here!  This place was so close to Jericho and Jerusalem, and you really felt like you were deep in the Holyland.

The hill down to the Dead Sea is very steep and it was obvious the ground we were walking on was once under the sea and not too long ago either. There were basic changing rooms which we availed of, and we were pre-warned about not letting the water into our eyes as it would really sting due to the high salt content. We eased our way into the Dead Sea with great excitement and after a few false starts we were giggling and floating before we knew it. Luckily there was a ‘lifeguard’ on duty – mainly with bottles of fresh, clean water to clear the salt from our eyes.  Honestly! As it happened, we were very grateful for him and his fresh water as we inadvertently did get stung indeed.  Several times. We were advised to enjoy the sea for about 20 minutes or so before going to the mud bath and applying the black Dead Sea mud all over the body and waiting for it to dry.  The mud has many healing properties and is excellent for the skin, especially for skin conditions like psoriasis.

 

We laughed at ourselves as we applied the mud and we took many photos of ourselves looking our worst or like something from an alien movie. After standing around laughing for about 15 minutes while the mud dried the next step in the process was to head back into the water to float to ‘wash’ the mud off.  There is a lot of oily substance in the water as well as the highest salt content. I could really feel my face burning (from the sun) as I lay in the water and although I didn’t want to get out it was the safest thing to do as soon as I could.  Again, the lifeguard with the clean water was most welcome to remove the harsh stinging from our eyes!

On leaving this fascinating place I turned to look back as I was walking uphill and found it alarming shocking and sad just how quickly the biblical Dead Sea seemed to be disappearing. We made our way back to our bus and our next stop was not surprisingly a ‘factory’ or workshop where they sell mud from the Dead Sea.  Apparently, Cleopatra and the Pharaohs used to have it transported to them, and they loved it so much they used it all the time. Naturally I was ‘sold’ and couldn’t wait to purchase some products to take home.  

Our next stop was Bethany Beyond the Jordan – The Baptism site of Jesus 

Also known as Al-Magthas – the silent desert.  Although this site had not been as high-ranking on my personal list of biblical and ancient sites to visit, I was not expecting the immense sense of calm and serenity, nor the eerie atmosphere of spirituality which overwhelmed me whilst walking through this silent desert, passing tiny streams and the ancient, native Tamaris trees. I still cannot believe how deeply I was moved. It really is silent and peaceful and although I’ve mentioned it before, in this place I was truly transported back over 2000 years in time. I can only say it was like being in a time warp, but in a beautiful way. Here, was the ultimate biblical atmosphere.

Today, due to natural climatization and geological changes and movements in the earth over a period of 2000 years, the actual baptismal spot is now approximately 500 feet away from the river Jordan. Earthquakes, flash floods and heavy rains have caused the original site (which was IN the river Jordan) to move approximately 500 feet away, so we visited both the actual baptismal site and of course, then walked over to the river Jordan itself. 

 

On the actual baptismal site itself there are 5 churches. Each one built to mark the spot where Jesus was baptised by John the Baptist. Over the passing of time and climatization and natural geological events, a new church was built every few centuries on top of the old one. These are under excavation at the moment and although protected, we were only a couple of feet from the actual baptismal spot itself. 

We then walked over to the river Jordan.  There were more steps down to a large font of Holy water, which some people collected in their water bottles to take home with them, and just beyond that, the river Jordan.  It was a small, narrow section of the river with some wooden steps leading into the water for anyone who wanted to get in or take photos.  We all did both. 

It was a very serene walk back to the tour bus.  In a strange way I didn’t want to leave here.  I was acutely aware of the fact that this is ‘where Jesus walked’ and it was a lot to take in. However, we had to leave for the drive back to Amman, where we arrived back to the hotel full of desert dust and oily hair (from the Dead Sea).  I’ve never had oily hair in my life so for me, it was a pleasure to have natural conditioner which even stayed in after I had thoroughly washed it!

Again, we were all happily exhausted from our huge adventures of the day and very hungry. So, after freshening up most of us arranged to head into town in taxis to look for a restaurant and we were told to head to ‘Rainbow St’ and we did.  Emerging from our taxis there was a great atmosphere in this locality, and it was surprisingly busy with both locals and tourists. We were surprised that we couldn’t access any of the restaurants on the main strip as they were full, so we ventured down a couple of side streets.  We came upon a beautiful scenic street full of coloured lanterns overhead and found the Boho restaurant, via a little covered alleyway on Mecca St. This time we all ordered individually off the menu, and I had Lebanese chicken which the waiter promised me was divine. In fact, the food was awful (at least mine was) but the craic was great as there was alcohol and a large screen playing music to which we all made a complete Holy show of ourselves by attempting to sing – each one of us louder than the rest! We eventually headed back to the hotel around 11pm to get some sleep as the following day would be our last day in Jordan.

Day 9 – old town Amman

We were very tired this morning after our adventures of the previous day, nevertheless up with the lark to enjoy our last day.  We boarded our bus again and headed to the old wall of Amman which is still standing since the time of Alexander the Great. 

More than just an archaeological site, the Amman Citadel is a sacred space where history, culture and religion converge.  today, the Citadel is an archaeological marvel and a symbol of cultural and religious diversity, where the echoes of ancient beliefs and customs meet contemporary pilgrims and travellers. The 3 key structures are the Temple of Hercules, the Umayyad Palace, and another Byzantine church. 

Opposite the Amman Citadel lies the ancient Roman Amphitheatre. Another timeless ancient wonder, the large and steeply raked structure could seat about 6,000 people: built into the hillside, it was oriented north to keep the sun out of the eyes of the spectators. The acoustics are sharp everywhere in the amphitheatre owing to the steepness of the enclosure. The theatre is still in use today for concerts and other performances. 

We left on foot to walk around the old Amman streets and Waleed took us through the old vegetable market where every imaginable local produce was on sale. After the market we had some free time to walk around and visit some of the local shops, where most of them sold the local crystals and jewellery, aimed at the few tourists in the area. This was a far more pleasant and relaxing experience than the hawkers and stall vendors we had met in the various locations over the past 10 days as there was no pressure to purchase applied! It was also lovely to be immersed in the atmosphere of the busy and industrious, yet unspoilt old streets of Amman. 

 

Before we left Amman we paid a visit to the Islamic Mosque.  In order to enter the mosque all the ladies had to wear a full-length black Abaya or Barkha. The men could stay as they were – even in shorts.  Although being modern Western women and being somewhat miffed at this, we respectfully dressed accordingly and removed our shoes nonetheless and experienced the beautiful mosque and its calm, yet colourful interior with luxurious soft carpets beneath our feet.  It was much larger inside than I had expected and I was quite dazzled by the luxurious blue and gold domed ceiling with circular lights underneath lending to a calm dedicated place of prayer. 

 

On leaving the mosque and Amman old town we headed back to our hotel.  We had late night flights home, so we had the opportunity to avail of our hotel rooms for another night at an extra cost.  Needless to say, we were grateful for this and the use of our rooms and the facilities (especially the beds) for the next few hours until we met downstairs in Trader Vics restaurant in the early evening for our ‘last supper’ where we talked and laughed and dreamt about our next travel adventures. Later we met up in the lobby to thank our lovely guide Waleed and our driver, Abdullah, before boarding our bus for one last time to the airport before heading home.  

TIPS FOR TRAVELLING TO JORDAN

• The restaurants tell you a meal costs JOD13 (approximately €15.50) however, when you add on tea or coffee or wine your bill usually comes closer to JOD30 or more!  They are very good at ‘selling extras’ so be aware. Most restaurants also have a ‘service charge’ added to the original price so be alert to all these extras.  On the plus side of eating with a group – there are no mathematic calculations and divisions to be made as your waiter will know exactly who ordered and consumed what and you can rest assured you will only pay for your own food and drink.

• As with most Middle Eastern countries, alcohol is not normally consumed and therefore they charge visitors a premium for the privilege! The Government places huge taxes on alcohol – up to 200 per cent. Aside from the alcohol tax the hotels and bars are still making a huge profit from tourists drinking alcohol. This part of tourism is where they really reel in the revenue. The most expensive place I encountered was in the Cave Bar beside Petra where I paid JOD20 /€25 for two beers!  The wine served is usually the local cheap wine but at an astronomical cost to the (tourist!) customer! There are no prices shown anywhere and it’s only when you go to pay your bill that you realise you are being fleeced! If you are on a budget, ask your waiter or Maître D before sitting down.  Regardless, just remember – cost aside - you have to eat, and you are having a genuine authentic dining experience in the Holyland. 

• The local coffee is very good, as with all Middle Eastern and Turkish coffee experiences. 

• All visitors to Jordan are required to obtain a Jordanian Visa.  We all purchased our Jordanian visas before travelling (you can also purchase on arrival at the airport if you need to) but as we were on an organised tour, it transpired we didn’t actually need our individual visas.  Our guide Waleed organised our entry into each place of interest as a group. 

At the time of writing this the Jordanian Dinar (JOD) is much the same currency as sterling.  So 100JOD = €121 or US$141.

• Vendors prices are wildly inflated! Like many places of tourism Jordanians do not have any prices shown in restaurants or on any of their stalls, wares or shop products and they are very heavy on the ‘hard sell’.  Bargain if you can.  Otherwise walk away.

To surmise – if you are looking for an action-packed, adventurous, authentic, educational, interesting experience steeped in history don’t hesitate to book this trip!